5 Days In the Desert- Burningman 2005

Ah Burningman….What’s not to love about a place where cheering the sun dip behind the mountains is a daily activity, life size chess games take place on a giant checkerboard under the blazing desert sun, and riding around wearing nothing but fairy wings doesn’t even raise an eyebrow?

Arriving in the desolated barren patch of desert that once a year transforms into the thriving Black Rock City, ‘burners’ are welcomed to ‘the playa’ by costumed greeters who enter each car or RV to open up coolers, cupboards and closets to check for stowaways, collect tickets, and offer a ‘welcome home’ hug (a statement only understood after a week here). First timers, referred to as ‘virgins’, are escorted out of the vehicle to ring a bell and handed a card that reads “spank me”, to be redeemed later. For the virgin burner, burningman is an experience that defies words. Amid the dusty white desolation are various walks of life scurrying around in wild furry costumes- topless, bottomless and every combination therein. What looks at first like an indistinguishable mass of tents mixing incoherently with desert is actually a well planned out city, complete with street signs, city blocks, a recycling center, post office and a radio station, all constructed and deconstructed again in a 2 week time frame. The feat is quite impressive. Streets such as ‘fetish’, ‘bipolar’ and ‘catharsis’ transform desert sand into city blocks. Black Rock City offers only two items for purchase, coffee and ice. All other necessities and amenities must be brought or bartered.

Once there, a plethora of activities beckon, although getting out the door (of your tent, that is), requires quite a bit of preparation in itself. A day’s survival essentials include goggles, lip balm (preferably on a string around the neck), a dust mask or bandana, hat, snack, gifts to barter with, a backpack filled with water, and a generous covering of sunscreen. Once packed, it’s off adventuring. Camps are groups into communities called theme camps, each offering various services, diversions or thematic activities. One can find anything from outdoor playgrounds, spa treatments and tarot card readings to yoga classes and 12 step meetings. And although camps often do have scheduled activities at specific times of the day, ‘playa’ time is an ambiguous blending of moment to moment, often marked only by the rising or setting sun. One can go out with a destination in mind and get easily distracted by one diversion or another while hours slip quietly by without notice. Each adventure leads to another until a change of weather or a shortage of water demands a return back to camp. The experience can only be likened to a chapter out of Alice in Wonderland, where time is no longer linear but occurs as a series of unrelated events where reality and fairy tale morph in and out of each other. This is life on the playa, without to-do lists, corporate meetings, deadlines or harried time commitments, traffic, cell phones or television. It’s life back in the day where to speaking to a neighbor involves jumping on a bike and riding over there.

Burningman is a big playground for adults left to their leisure. Anything imaginable can be found here. One can play in a giant roomful of balls, climb a tower, cuddle in a room of furry pillows, drum, chant, dance, spin fire, jump on a trampoline or swim in a pool. Beyond the freedom to run amuck naked or in costume without judgment, the joy of rediscovering the inner child and leaving behind the obligations and demands of a hectic lifestyle, there is a community vibe here, reminiscent of the hippie era. People are friendly on the street. A lost person is offered directions, a hungry straggler who wanders into camp is fed, a fallen biker is helped, and strangers may come up to offer random hugs. It’s a place to relax and let down the defenses and stresses of the real world.

As the day turns to night, marked by the sunset celebration, it’s time to head back to camp to grab some dinner and swap out daytime clothing and gear for night essentials. Evening on the playa opens up a completely different world. Preparation usually involves intricate prepping and primping of elaborate costumes, wigs, boots, make up and such, completed by the donning of ‘bling’, a term used to describe the various blinking or glow in the dark accessories such as necklaces, earrings and bracelets designed to set people apart from the pitch black desert night. Black Rock City vaguely resembles Vegas with a freaky twist, with neon signs lighting up the night sky, a constant hustle of activity, and elaborately costumed party goers running to and fro until all hours. The experience is very ethereal and surreal. In the darkness, bikes whiz by out of nowhere, ornately decorated cars strung with Christmas lights pick up people for a touring disco of the playa, glow in the dark necklaces, bracelets and anklets walk by, seemingly suspended in mid air, without the visibility of the body they are attached to. Evening activities include raves, dance bars, cuddle lounges, jazz cafes, fire spinners, and various other enclaves in which to pass the night away. Festivities continue throughout the night with DJs spinning until sunrise, where hard-core partiers may opt for a sunrise walk before heading off to bed for a few hours of sleep.

Everyone comes to burningman for different reasons, and no two experiences can be compared. Some come to dance the night away and reconvene with friends. Others come to seek spiritual clarity or enlightenment. Many take away lessons and life long friends.

The culmination of the event takes place on Saturday, after a week of festivities. The wooden structure of a man, which stands at the center of camp all week, is set ablaze. Some 35,000-50,000 spectators gather in an indistinguishable crowd of glowing, flashy things around the man. Fire spinners and drummers set off the ceremony, followed by a spectacular display of fireworks above the man, and then an explosion which sets the structure on fire. Crowds scream and celebrate the event, by wishing those around them a happy ‘new year’. The first experience is like the anticipation and awe of Christmas to a child. Virgin burners stand wide eyed, mouths open, grinning ear to ear at the amazing spectacle. There is a celebration feel in the air, which continues through dawn.

Sunday is a quiet day where many pack up camp to head home. Many visit the temple, a wooden shrine erected in honor of those who have passed on. People come throughout the week to leave messages to loved ones and departed pets or to deposit memorabilia symbolic of experiences they wish leave in the past. The energy is heavy and sad. Notes etched onto the wood or taped to the structure bear the poignant words of pain, loss and lessons learned. The experience is an emotional one, and people can be seen crying or hugging one another. On Sunday evening, in a smaller, more solemn ceremony, the temple is set on fire, where all of the messages and trinkets are offered to the fire, in anticipation of a new beginning.

Monday morning is time to say farewell to the people who have shared the experience. Those one week ago who were complete strangers but are now family. And suddenly, it becomes clear the meaning of the greeters ‘welcome home’ message. Because, in such a short time, this crazy world of play and adventures, dust storms and porta potties, so far away from the world of stress and modern conveniences, has truly become home. With a few tearful hugs and a feeble attempt to shake off the playa dust, it’s time to head out in search of a shower and a good night’s sleep. It’s time to rejoin the real world, already in progress, keeping the lessons learned and the spirit of burningman alive for another 364 days.